Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Ethiopia: Overview from Dr. Beyda




We have been traveling, working, and being exposed to a different way of life, a different way of looking at how people are treated and how people live. We've seen everything from the ordinary, to the extraordinary and beyond. There have been moments of confusion, happiness, frustration, and wonder. We've seen children who are so malnourished that they don't even measure on our growth charts. We have seen poverty that is indescribable, and beyond description. We have seen people who are so dirty that their skin is not even visible. We've seen deformities, untreated injuries, and birth defects. We have seen babies suckling at the breast crying because there is no milk to be had. And we have seen the smiles on the faces of those whom we helped. It has been a remarkable few days. We have seen an amazing amount of patients, averaging 350 to 400 patients a day. Our dentists have been averaging 80-100 patients a day. The actual number of patients we've seen so far doesn't really matter. Its how they've reacted to how we've cared for them that makes a big difference. There are patients for whom we've not been able to help and there are those for whom we've made a difference. The pictures speak for themselves.

We split the team into two sending one team to Zeway and the other team to Bahir Dar. Each team saw over 300 patients in the two half days of clinics that were held. The team that went to Zeway drove by bus for several hours, and the Bahir Dar team flew. There was time for some sightseeing, and for reflection. But most of the time was spent doing what we came to do: to see those who sought our help, physical and emotional and spiritual. Yesterday we went to a project in the outskirts of Addis Ababa called Kotebe. Again, we saw extremely poor and isolated human beings, living day to day with nothing but the clothes on their back and existing on an occasional meal of bread. And today, in stark contrast to what we've been seeing, we met with the President of Ethiopia, exchanging "thank you's", us for the privilege of being here in his country and him thanking us for helping. The pomp and circumstance of the event was interesting at best, but cemented for me the vast differences that are evident within a social structure in a Third World country. For what it's worth, the President of Ethiopia heard that we were here because of the healthcare needs of an impoverished lower class and all we can hope is that he felt some discomfort with the fact that people from another country had to come to his country to care for his own people. I am perhaps a little cynical, but after all that we've seen in the past few days one can only wonder how those behind those palatial walls can rest comfortably at night knowing that just outside their gates are children who are dying of starvation, and mothers struggling to find a meal for their children. But then again we look at our own circumstances in the United States and know that there are those who sit behind palatial walls knowing that just outside their gates there are poverty-stricken areas of urban cities, the Appalachia's, and the ghettos, where the human existence and suffering is no different than what we are seeing here. These have been difficult days, at least for me. I see the unwashed and hungry children in my mind every time I close my eyes. And I see the hopelessness in the eyes of those who came wanting more than we could give them. The last patient I saw in Bahir Dar was an old man of 90 years. He was walking hunched over with a walking stick, blind, and alone. A stranger had brought him to us. He sat next to me and as I held his hand, he told me he was blind, he lived in the street, he had no money, no family, and that he was hungry. I asked him how I could help. He looked at me through eyes that hadn't seen life in years, and said quietly, "Can you help me die?" I never answered him. I didn't know how. I simply held his hand and kissed his cheek and said a silent prayer. He was a Muslim looking to us for help. As I watched him walk away I wondered whether I fell short of what I came here to do. To show those who are hurting that there is still love to be had. And I will wonder for a very long time, if he ever got over wanting to die. I can only hope.

Friday, August 8, 2008

Ethiopia: Black Lion Hospital

Yesterday, as we were waiting to leave Addis, we went to the local hospital to take a look at the conditions there.  It was shocking and nothing like you could imagine in the US.  One of the local physicians that had been working with us all week gave us a tour of the ER and the pediatric ward.  The rooms were dirty, smelly and crowded.  The NICU had 5 babies per "bed" (platform with a warmer).  The pediatric rooms had kids with TB mixed in with infants.  We met one amazing kid that had a trach and had been living on the ward since he was 3 because he needs frequent suctioning.  He is now 7 years old.  The ER consisted of planks and benches pushed together.  MRI comes on Monday, Wednesday and Friday only.  There were flies all over and open windows.  But there were doctors with huge hearts and love for their work.  I only was able to take a few pictures in less sensitive areas [to be posted soon].

Ethiopia: Back on this continent!


Hey everyone!

After about 36 hours of traveling, we are finally back in the US.  We have a long layover in DC today before the final let back to Phoenix.  What an amazing trip.  The people that we met have such a strength of spirit.  We saw over 2,000 patients during the trip.  So much disease and malnutrition.  But a love of life and family and community.  The kids were absolutely beautiful.  There are 700,000 orphans alone living in Addis Ababa, many on the streets.  There were at least three newly adopted children on our flight back to the US (not our group!).  I will post as many pictures as I can today.

Can't wait to see you all and share more stories.

Love, Michelle

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Ethiopia: Last post for the trip

TITLE: WEDNESDAY
Well, today was our last day of clinic and it was crazy! We only planned on a half day clinic since we were returning to one of the Mercy Center childcare locations. But, the word must have gotten out and an unbelievable number of people showed up. Dr. Beyda closed the doors around noon because the crowds were getting too out-of-hand. We ended up seeing about 300 patients in four hours. Then around 2pm we had a traditional coffee ceremony and lunch with all the locals that worked with us. The coffee ceremony was very interesting. They spread grass on the floor (representing fertility) and burn incense (I don’t know what it represents). They put a bowl of popcorn next to the coals (representing abundance) and then roast green coffee beans on a wooden plank over a bowl of coals. It takes about 30 minutes to roast from green to dark. Then she grinds them with a mortar and pestle into grinds that then go into a large wooden coffee pot with bowling water. It was sooo good!
We are heading to dinner this evening with the entire group at the Addis Hilton. Tomorrow is a free day and we plan to visit the local hospital, Black Lion Hospital. We will be heading to the airport tomorrow evening.
Most likely this will be my last post from Ethiopia. I will add pictures as soon as I get better internet access. I can’t wait for you to see what I have seen – words do not do it justice.
Love you all!
Michelle

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Ethiopia: Tuesday



Hopefully this note will make it into the blog. Ethiopia is both a sad and amazing place. Today we met with the President. It was interesting and more of a publicity op for him than anything. ETV covered the meeting... he didn't say much. Just a brief thank you for our efforts here. Press photos only but one of the official photographer had photos for us to purchase. Today was a free day (no clinic). We were lucky to have a woman as our tour guide and she owns a textile factory. Her factory produces textiles under fair trade conditions and she hires local women and men who have difficulties obtaining jobs. One worker making hand-loomed carpets was struck with polio! She then took us around to different areas of town, one area filled with Somalian refuges. There are many women in the group so we had no difficulty supporting the local commerce!
This evening we went to the home of another affluent business woman for traditional ethiopian dinner. It turns out that they fast from meat two days a week so have a large selection of vegetarian dishes. It was a nice experience.
I am exhausted and we have early clinic tomorrow.
See you all soon!
Michelle

Ethiopia: Monday 4 August



TITLE: MONDAY
Hello again!
As I mentioned earlier, Sunday was a nice quiet day. We went out for lunch at a place called the Melting Pot. I had a local Ethiopian dish with fish and spices that was actually very good. They eat with a bread called ingera here which has a strange texture and basically no taste because it absorbs the taste of your food. Then we drove around for a bit and went sightseeing. We came back to the hotel and did pharmacy inventory. We then went to a local grocery shop to pick up peanut butter and jelly and bread for Monday. For dinner, we were invited to a local woman’s home. Her and her husband are both affluent local businessmen and supporters of the Mercy Centers for Children (the group where we hold our clinics). It was interesting to see how the local businessmen live. The home was nice and the food was traditional Ethiopian.
Monday (yesterday) was another busy clinic. We were too busy to finalize the count so I don’t know how many patients we saw but we set up at a church about 30 minutes on the outskirts of Addis in a very poor area. The kids were very sick. We took supplies for a quick lunch and worked until 5pm. We packed up and then stopped for dinner on the way back to the hotel. This time we went to a place called Blue Drop. Since Ethiopia was colonized by the Italians, there is a lot of pasta. So, dinner was a bowl of pasta and vegetables.
Today, we are going to meet the President and then maybe some shopping at the local Mercado. Our last clinic will be tomorrow and then we begin our travels home on Thursday.
I am still doing well. It is amazing how much I miss the little things, like a plate of fresh fruits and vegetables.
Love, Michelle

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Ethiopia: SATURDAY/SUNDAY

TITLE: SATURDAY/SUNDAY

Hello again!

We just returned from Bahir Dar in northern Ethiopia. It was an exhausting trip. We left yesterday morning on a small plan. There was only 5 of us (the other five went on a road trip to a small village south). As to be expected in Ethiopia, our plane left late so we didn’t even have time to set up and sort our drugs before the clinic opened. The conditions in this northern town were so bad and the children were so sick it was heartbreaking. Let’s start with yesterday… we saw about 130 patients (since we only had ½ the team and were running for only ½ day this was a lot). The majority of them were extremely malnourished. We set up at about 12:30 and ran clinic until about 5pm. Then we left for our hotel which was on Lake Tana. It was a beautiful setting but we were so tired, we only had dinner and then headed for bed.

We opened clinic again today at 8am. When we arrive at our location, there was a line of people waiting at the gate. It was the poorest of the poor and many had been waiting all night for us to arrive. Dr. Beyda explained that these were people from the Tana Tribe and that they had traveled far to see us (many of them with no shoes). Their personal hygiene was so extremely poor and the malnutrition was even worse than yesterday. There were so many adults that we ended up having one doctor see adults and the other two focus on the kids. Dr. Beyda was the adult physician. His last patient of the day was a 90 year old man who asked him for medication to help him die. There were so many times during the day that I wanted to cry but we all held it together well. We intended to only see 100 kids today but we couldn’t turn our backs on these people. We ended up seeing about 130 again during our ½ day clinic.

After we closed shop, we took an excursion to the Nile Falls which are at the mouth of the Blue Nile River. It was an tough drive through rough terrain. All the while, we were passing through small villages with masses and masses of sheep-herders and farmers all living in the most dismal conditions. Since today is Saturday, it was market day for these people so we were constantly having to slow down to allow goats and donkey wagons and masses were always in the road (I am not sure they have seen a truck in days). We parked at a spot near the river and then hiked up about 45 minutes to the falls. It was breath-taking. A very interesting end to an emotionally exhausting day. We flew back to Addis and grabbed a quick bite to eat.

Ethiopia: STORY

TITLE: STORY

Another quick note that I meant to send Thursday… just a story from one of our clinics in Addis:

A 14 year old boy came in to the clinic and saw Dawn, one of our pediatricians from Phoenix. Working through an interpreter, he told her that he wanted to be seen for his “rare form of TB”. Dawn did a h&p on him and the story was just not making sense. She pulled in Dr. Beyda and they questioned him further and found out that both of his parents had passed away and that he was living with his grandmother. His grandmother told him that he had been diagnosed with a rare form of tuberculosis and that he needed to be on medications for the rest of his life. One day we walked by a beggar in the street and the beggar had his medicines on display with a note that said something like “Please help me – I have AIDS”. The boy looked at the medicines and realized that they were the same medications that he was on. His grandmother had not told him the truth. When he asked her, she told him that he did have AIDS but that he would have to continue to tell people that he had TB or else he would be ostracized. It was an unbelievably sad and shocking story. Although the Care Centers that Dr. Beyda works with using only enroll younger children, Dr. Beyda immediately got him enrolled in the program so that he can continue to get counseling, food, clothing, and education.

Ethiopia: WEDNESDAY/THURSDAY



Title – WEDNESDAY/THURSDAY

Hey Everyone!

Sorry it took me so long to write! As you could guess, the internet has been pretty unreliable here. But I am safe and sound and Africa is pretty amazing. Here is the story so far…

Monday was a long travel day. First we flew to DC and had a 5 hour layover. Then we got on Ethiopian Airlines and settled in for our 15 hour flight. The flight is so long that we had to make a fuel stop in Rome. But, we weren’t allowed off the plane for an hour! The airline was pretty basic but it really didn’t matter because all I wanted to do was sleep! We finally arrived in Ethiopia, Addis Ababa at 8pm and then had to get our visas, get through customs (with drugs and needles!) and then get a ride to the hotel. We had a quick dinner bite and then hit the sack. Needless to say, I couldn’t sleep since I had been sleeping off and on for the last 24 hours.

But, we had to be up at 6am for our first clinic in a suburb of Addis Ababa. Since I was the team pharmacist and had yet to set my eyes on the drugs, I was anxious to get started. It took us about 2 hours to get the pharmacy set up, organized and drugs labeled then we were off and running. We say over 400 patients on our first day. The kids were absolutely adorable and thankful for all our help. There is so much need here that it is hard to put in words. The conditions in the city are beyond our comprehension. But the people are so nice and appreciative and helpful. I have been working with a local pharmacist to help with some of the translation and she is wonderful. Amharic is the local language and is a derivitive of Italian and some strange African language.

Today we had another clinic in the same spot and we saw over 500 (yes, 500) patients, some very sick and some very curious. Tomorrow we are headed north to a city called Bahir Dar so I will have more stories soon. (My internet is giving me trouble so I need to call this one quits.)

I am safe and doing well so don’t worry. I miss you all and promise to write again soon.

Love, Michelle

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Ethiopia: Saturday 8-2-08 / Return from Bahir Dar



Hello again!
We just returned from Bahir Dar in northern Ethiopia. It was an exhausting trip. We left yesterday morning on a small plan. There was only 5 of us (the other five went on a road trip to a small village south). As to be expected in Ethiopia, our plane left late so we didn’t even have time to set up and sort our drugs before the clinic opened. The conditions in this northern town were so bad and the children were so sick it was heartbreaking. Let’s start with yesterday… we saw about 130 patients (since we only had ½ the team and were running for only ½ day this was a lot). The majority of them were extremely malnourished. We set up at about 12:30 and ran clinic until about 5pm. Then we left for our hotel which was on Lake Tana. It was a beautiful setting but we were so tired, we only had dinner and then headed for bed.
We opened clinic again today at 8am. When we arrive at our location, there was a line of people waiting at the gate. It was the poorest of the poor and many had been waiting all night for us to arrive. Dr. Beyda explained that these were people from the Tana Tribe and that they had traveled far to see us (many of them with no shoes). Their personal hygiene was so extremely poor and the malnutrition was even worse than yesterday. There were so many adults that we ended up having one doctor see adults and the other two focus on the kids. Dr. Beyda was the adult physician. His last patient of the day was a 90 year old man who asked him for medication to help him die. There were so many times during the day that I wanted to cry but we all held it together well. We intended to only see 100 kids today but we couldn’t turn our backs on these people. We ended up seeing about 130 again during our ½ day clinic.
After we closed shop, we took an excursion to the Nile Falls which are at the mouth of the Blue Nile River. It was an tough drive through rough terrain. All the while, we were passing through small villages with masses and masses of sheep-herders and farmers all living in the most dismal conditions. Since today is Saturday, it was market day for these people so we were constantly having to slow down to allow goats and donkey wagons and masses were always in the road (I am not sure they have seen a truck in days). We parked at a spot near the river and then hiked up about 45 minutes to the falls. It was breath-taking. A very interesting end to an emotionally exhausting day. We flew back to Addis and grabbed a quick bite to eat.
I promise to write more tomorrow.
Love, Michelle